Afan Forest & Pontrhydyfen: Hiking Trails and Local Food
Looking for your next outdoor adventure in Wales? Discover the stunning hiking trails of Afan Forest and the historic village of Pontrhydyfen. From challenging uphill walks with incredible valley views to rewarding local food, explore why this regenerated area is a hidden gem for hikers.
Sometimes my soul aches for complete surrender, for respite, for a pause in time. It yearns for a snooze button on responsibility to allow for mere existence. Uncomplicated, simple, existence. Where all you need is long walks in nature, wholesome food, a hug and maybe a good book.
Wales provides that haven for me. I love the proximity of the sea, the waterfalls, and the rolling hills. As an islander, I seek out the sea like a tormented Moana. It’s deeply ironic that I’ve set base in the innermost part of England, where any trip to the beach involves a minimum two-hour drive!
I spent some time there recently and explored areas that I’d never been to before. I found two absolute gems in the process: one is the friendliest village in Wales, and the other is the most idyllic seaside village I’ve ever seen.
I want to focus on the former in today’s update. More on the dreamy seaside village in a future piece!
The Heart of the Valleys
We stayed in an old mining village called Pontrhydyfen, right around the Afan Forest Park. The area is steeped in coal mining history, but the last mine closed in 1970, and the landscape has completely regenerated itself since becoming a forest park in 1972. The Afan river, which was severely polluted by the coal and iron industries for over a century, started recovering in the 1960s and 70s. Now it runs crystal clear – it even attracts salmon who swim upstream to spawn!
It struck me that every single person we encountered in the area was incredibly friendly. The community is tight-knit, and everyone we spoke to took great pride in their heritage. Not to mention, they take immense pride in the fact that the legendary actor Richard Burton was born right there in Pontrhydyfen in 1925 (fun fact: he was born Richard Walter Jenkins!). You cannot move a few metres without seeing some sort of Richard Burton memorabilia, mural, or monument.
I’ll be honest: I had no clue who Richard Burton was except that he was married to Elizabeth Taylor, and I had no clue who Elizabeth Taylor was until I heard Taylor Swift’s song about her. I’m not the most cultured cinematographic expert, to say the least!
Hiking the Afan Forest
Afan Forest is famously popular for mountain bikers, offering cycling routes for all abilities. It also offers various walking trails, a lot of which go uphill, so I would rate them as medium to hard in terms of hiking difficulty. I love a good hike, so this placed me right in my element. I could easily walk for hours and hours, soaking in the views or introspecting or both!
There’s really not much around other than plenty of beautiful nature to bathe in and the occasional pub. It forces atelic activities which, as a severely Type A personality, I have to consciously engineer in order to enjoy (which I know sounds paradoxical).
Where to Eat Breakfast
For breakfast, Bethel’s Chapel is a popular spot and offers the friendliest service. The old aqueduct – known locally as Y Bont Fawr – leads right to it. It’s a beautifully converted, Grade II-listed Welsh Baptist chapel. The owners, Jackie and Peter, will gladly pull out their photo albums to share the history of the place and their family (including, of course, any Richard Burton-associated nuggets).
The Ultimate Pre-Hike Fuel (or Post-Hike Reward): Base Café
My absolute favourite spot – so much so that we went there twice – was Base Café, located right next to the Afan Forest Visitor Centre.
This gorgeous spot, nestled on the outskirts of the forest, opens fairly early and offers a delicious American-style menu featuring fried chicken burgers, cheeseburgers, full English breakfasts, cake, and more. It is truly the best way to start or finish a hike! I had the Southern Belle burger, my son devoured the everything bagel, and my daughter tackled a massive slab of deep-fried mozzarella. We had quite the spread!
A Perfect Base Camp
Close enough to this area, you’ll find The Mumbles, Swansea, Bannau Brycheiniog National Park (the Brecon Beacons), Waterfall Country, and Ogmore-by-Sea, all within a 45-minute drive.
It makes for a fantastic base to explore the region. A quick tip: you might want to book ahead if you want to get dinner out. We found only a handful of local pubs in the surrounding villages, all with brilliant reviews and many boasting gastropub status, but they were always fully booked!
If you are heading that way, I highly recommend securing a table in advance at one of these local gems:
- The Brit Pub: A beautifully renovated historic pub with a beer garden right by the river.
- Afan Tavern: Known for its incredibly friendly atmosphere and hearty portions.
- The Rolling Mill: A highly rated local favourite with great home-cooked meals.
- The Colliers Arms: Situated in Pontrhydyfen itself, offering riverside dining and a famous Sunday roast.
We only managed to sample them for some drinks. Next time, we will definitely book ahead to try the food.
About me...I'm Lorna Rose and, by day, I work in the tech industry, but in my heart of hearts, I've always been fascinated by the story that food tells. The magic of a well-cooked meal, the way a simple dish can bring people together, spark conversation, and create lasting memories. On Happy Bellies, I set out to explore and find hidden gems, so that I can indulge in telling stories around food that will make you want to go out and create your own foodie adventures.
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